France - Marseille - Grande Candelle - Cirque de la Fontasse - L : 48m - H : 70m

Highline and waterline Forbidden so far in the national Park ! Highline described for memories.

General Access : (Maps)
From Cassis: Park at la Gardiole and follow the yellow trail towards Cap Gros (appr. 2hrs), take a right towards the Grand Candelle.
From Marseille: Park at Luminy and take the trail (I think white/red) towards Cap Gros. (Get more information from a climbing book or map)

Line Access:
La Candelon: Walk up the slab on the needle to the bush on top, protect youself on the old rusty hangers. Bring slings and some friends (0.5 – 2 Camalots) to backup those rusty bolts.

La Grande Candelle: Climb up on the north side on easy but poorly protected routes. Rapell down the 3m vertical section of the last pitch of „Arete de Marseilles“, walk until you see the anchor of the highline, use the bolts of the route to protect yourself while rigging. Longer but more spectacular: climb Arete de Marseilles until the last but one pitch, look for the anchor on the left side.

The line:
Where ?
„Cirque de la Fontasse“: Streched from the needle „Candelon“ to the massif of La Grande Candelle.
Who - When ?
Opening : Matthias Held (FA) and Frederik Zimmermann, Nov. 2012

Anchors :
2 x 12mm & 1 x 10mm bolts on each side. Bring hangers and nuts.

La Candelon: The anchor on this side is far down the little crack in the middle oft he wall. Equalize one 2m sling from the outside bolts, then run a 6 or 7 m sling to the far right area where the little needle stands. Use another long sling fort he backop. Bring LOTS of padding. THE REASON FOR THE ANCHOR POSITION LIES IN THE VERY FRAGILE ROCK ON THIS SIDE OF THE WALL. BE EXTREMELY CAREFULL WITH ROCKFALL WHILE RIGGING. THERE´S LOTS OF HIKERS THAT YOU DO NOT WANT TO HURT!!!

La Grande Candelle: Good side to rig. Equalize 12mm bolts with 1m sling, backup on 10mm bolt.

Linking :
Moderate, throw 70m rope off the anchor on the Candelle, throw 50 m Rope or line from the walking point of La Candelon.

Remarks :
The anchor on the Candelle is very close to the classic route „Arete de Marseille“. Make sure to keep the route clear while rigging and have fun explaining what you are doing to all the interested climbers. Beware of fragile rock on both sides and be carefull to not throw down anything to keep hikers safe.
This place gets very crowded on nice weekends.

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