General Access : (Maps)
From Cassis: Park at la Gardiole and
follow the yellow trail towards Cap Gros (appr. 2hrs), take a right
towards the Grand Candelle.
From Marseille: Park at Luminy and take
the trail (I think white/red) towards Cap Gros. (Get more information
from a climbing book or map)
Line Access:
La Candelon: Walk up the slab on the
needle to the bush on top, protect youself on the old rusty hangers.
Bring slings and some friends (0.5 – 2 Camalots) to backup those
rusty bolts.
La Grande Candelle: Climb up on the
north side on easy but poorly protected routes. Rapell down the 3m
vertical section of the last pitch of „Arete de Marseilles“, walk
until you see the anchor of the highline, use the bolts of the route
to protect yourself while rigging. Longer but more spectacular: climb
Arete de Marseilles until the last but one pitch, look for the anchor
on the left side.
The line:
Where ?
„Cirque de la Fontasse“: Streched from the needle „Candelon“ to the massif of La Grande Candelle.
Who - When ?
Opening : Matthias Held (FA) and Frederik Zimmermann, Nov. 2012
Anchors :
2 x 12mm & 1 x 10mm bolts on each side. Bring hangers and nuts.
La Candelon: The anchor on this side is
far down the little crack in the middle oft he wall. Equalize one 2m
sling from the outside bolts, then run a 6 or 7 m sling to the far
right area where the little needle stands. Use another long sling
fort he backop. Bring LOTS of padding. THE REASON FOR THE ANCHOR
POSITION LIES IN THE VERY FRAGILE ROCK ON THIS SIDE OF THE WALL. BE
EXTREMELY CAREFULL WITH ROCKFALL WHILE RIGGING. THERE´S LOTS OF
HIKERS THAT YOU DO NOT WANT TO HURT!!!
La Grande
Candelle: Good side to rig. Equalize 12mm bolts with 1m sling, backup
on 10mm bolt.
Linking :
Moderate, throw 70m rope off the anchor on the Candelle, throw 50 m Rope or line from the walking point of La Candelon.
Remarks :
The anchor on the Candelle is very close to the classic route „Arete de Marseille“. Make sure to keep the route clear while rigging and have fun explaining what you are doing to all the interested climbers. Beware of fragile rock on both sides and be carefull to not throw down anything to keep hikers safe.
Linking :
Moderate, throw 70m rope off the anchor on the Candelle, throw 50 m Rope or line from the walking point of La Candelon.
Remarks :
The anchor on the Candelle is very close to the classic route „Arete de Marseille“. Make sure to keep the route clear while rigging and have fun explaining what you are doing to all the interested climbers. Beware of fragile rock on both sides and be carefull to not throw down anything to keep hikers safe.
This place gets very crowded on nice
weekends.
The highliner database is under
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