2013/09/15

France - Marseille - Grande Candelle - Cirque de la Fontasse - L : 48m - H : 70m





General Access : (Maps)
From Cassis: Park at la Gardiole and follow the yellow trail towards Cap Gros (appr. 2hrs), take a right towards the Grand Candelle.
From Marseille: Park at Luminy and take the trail (I think white/red) towards Cap Gros. (Get more information from a climbing book or map)

Line Access:
La Candelon: Walk up the slab on the needle to the bush on top, protect youself on the old rusty hangers. Bring slings and some friends (0.5 – 2 Camalots) to backup those rusty bolts.

La Grande Candelle: Climb up on the north side on easy but poorly protected routes. Rapell down the 3m vertical section of the last pitch of „Arete de Marseilles“, walk until you see the anchor of the highline, use the bolts of the route to protect yourself while rigging. Longer but more spectacular: climb Arete de Marseilles until the last but one pitch, look for the anchor on the left side.

The line:
Where ?
„Cirque de la Fontasse“: Streched from the needle „Candelon“ to the massif of La Grande Candelle.
Who - When ?
Opening : Matthias Held (FA) and Frederik Zimmermann, Nov. 2012

Anchors :
2 x 12mm & 1 x 10mm bolts on each side. Bring hangers and nuts.

La Candelon: The anchor on this side is far down the little crack in the middle oft he wall. Equalize one 2m sling from the outside bolts, then run a 6 or 7 m sling to the far right area where the little needle stands. Use another long sling fort he backop. Bring LOTS of padding. THE REASON FOR THE ANCHOR POSITION LIES IN THE VERY FRAGILE ROCK ON THIS SIDE OF THE WALL. BE EXTREMELY CAREFULL WITH ROCKFALL WHILE RIGGING. THERE´S LOTS OF HIKERS THAT YOU DO NOT WANT TO HURT!!!

La Grande Candelle: Good side to rig. Equalize 12mm bolts with 1m sling, backup on 10mm bolt.

Linking :
Moderate, throw 70m rope off the anchor on the Candelle, throw 50 m Rope or line from the walking point of La Candelon.

Remarks :
The anchor on the Candelle is very close to the classic route „Arete de Marseille“. Make sure to keep the route clear while rigging and have fun explaining what you are doing to all the interested climbers. Beware of fragile rock on both sides and be carefull to not throw down anything to keep hikers safe.
This place gets very crowded on nice weekends.

2013/06/21

France - Annecy - Rocher du Béard - L : 25m - H : 45m



Textes et photos : Antoine Mesnage. Merci !

Accès : Google Map
Du parking du chalet de l'anglettaz, prendre le chemin qui monte en direction du parmelan. Arrivé à la table d'orientation, longer la crète sur la droite. Le spot est alors inmanquabe, deux falaises, et entre les deux un pierrier qui descend assez raide.

Installation : L'installation se fait sur deux arbres des deux cotés de la falaise, accès très facile. Attacher la ligne d'un coté, lancer la sangle en bas, lancer une corde de l'autre coté puis attacher la sangle à la corde pour la remonter.

Le spot : Ligne de 25 m, environ 45 m de haut, avec une ouverture sur le parmelan. Vue magnifique, on voit le lac d'Annecy au début de la ligne.

2013/05/31

Australia - North Rocks - The Dam - L : 35m - H : 7-35m

Pictures and text : Luke Sarantos. Many thanks to him.


Access: Park in the cul de sac at the end of Loyalty Rd, North Rocks. Follow the fire trail down to the flood water retarding wall.

Who/When: Luke Sarantos and Wayde S, July 2012.

Anchors: Take 2x50m static ropes, one for each anchor. Use the rope to equalize 4 handrail poles on each side. Make sure you attach to the base of the poles, and make sure the angles you create are less than 90°. Take lots of rope protection.

Linking: Abseil down to middle ledge and walk the line across.

Remarks: There is only 7m of clearance directly below the line, make sure that your main line is in good condition and make sure the back up is tight. And try not to take leash falls.

Australia - North Head - Small Steel Nut - L : 20m - H : 60m


Pictures and text : Luke Sarantos. Many thanks to him.
Location: 33°48'44.35"S 151°18'10.73"E

Access: Refer to Google Earth. Drive along Bluefish Drive until the road comes to an obvious fork, veer to the right and park in the car park on the on Gunners Rd. Continue on foot along the road, you should see a fire trail on the corner. Continue along the fire trail until you reach an old sandstone brick wall, follow the wall, on the left side, all the way to the ocean, the gully is on the left at the end of the wall.

Who/When: Luke Sarantos and Shane Yates, September 2012.

Anchors: 3 Ring bolts for tension on each side, 2 glue-in hangers on each side for back ups.

Linking: Make sure you take something to throw a line across, it is not easy to access the bottom of the gully and not possible to walk the line around. We use a slingshot and fishing line.

Australia - Belmore Falls - L : 35-40m - H : 80m


Pictures and text : Luke Sarantos. May thanks to him !

Access: Refer to Google Earth for location. Drive along Belmore Falls Rd until you come to a creek crossing, Park your car here and walk down the creek to the to the top of the waterfall. From the edge of the waterfall you should be able to see to two ring bolts in the wall about 1.5m below the look out.

Who/When: Luke Sarantos, Ryan Sleiman April 2013

Anchors: On the Southern side (the lookout side) there is 2 glue-in ring bolts in the wall 1.5m below the look out, use the 2 ring bolts on top and the hand rail as your back-up. From the lookout you should be able to see 3 ring bolts in the wall opposite. To access the northern side, walk back up along the road until you see an obvious clearing with a massive tree (5m around), this tree will be your back-up anchor and your rappel anchor for setting up the line. There will be a cleared path that leads toward the edge, the anchors are about 1m right of this clearing, and about 3m down the wall. Take lots of slings and extra static ropes for this line. You will need an ascender and foot loop to climb back up from the line!!

Linking: Take a slingshot, throw line or bow and arrow, it can be difficult to get the line from one side to the other. It’s probably easier to get a line from the lookout to the water fall, and one from the north side to the waterfall, and then have someone tie them together in the middle.

Remarks: This is a difficult line to setup but it is definitely worth the effort. Take extra static ropes and slings.
Make sure that you have ascenders and that you know how to use them!

Australia - Corroboree Wall, Mt Victoria - Dive Bomb - L : 25m - H : 70m

Pictures and text : Luke Sarantos. Many thanks to him !


Corroboree Wall, Mt Victoria.

Corroboree Wall Access: Park your car at the campsite/carpark at the end of Kanimbla Valley Rd, Mt Victoria. All of the highlines are located on the South facing cliff line.


Dive Bomb- 25m Long, 70m High.



Access: Follow the foot track south down toward the cliff edge, this line is located on the buttress second buttress from the west.

Who/When: Luke Sarantos, Jacob Druce and Shane Yates. July 2012

Anchors: On the western side there is ring bolts and hangers for tension and back up. On the eastern side you will see a massive bomber Gum tree for the tension and some smaller trees for back ups further back. Take a 4m sling to wrap around the Gum tree.

Linking: Take a slingshot/throw line, it is a long walk to the bottom and back up again.

Remarks: Be aware that this buttress commonly is used by commercial abseiling and adventure companies, please respect their business and try not to get in their way too much.


Send & Spew- 40m long, 70m High.



Access: The tensioning side for this line is two Buttresses to the East of Dive Bomb.

Who/When: Luke Sarantos and Neil Magil, September 2012

Anchors: We found it much easier to tension from the eastern side. There is 2 ringbolts and a carrot (take bolt plates) for the line tension, you will find a bunch of boulders and trees to choose from for the back up. On the western side, you will find a bushy tree about 30cm in diameter close to the cliff edge, we used this for the line tension. There is a massive gum tree about 4m behind the anchor tree that we used for the back up.

Linking: Take a Slingshot or bow and arrow, it is not possible to walk the line around.

Australia - Rosa Gully - L : 12m - Vaulcuse - If Pigs Could Line - L : 30m - H : 25m

Text and pictures : Luke Sarantos. May thanks to him.



Access: Park your car at Diamond Bay Reserve at Craig Ave, Vaucluse. The lines are across the gully at the northern end of the park. 'If pigs could line' is located at the widest part of the gully, basically over the water.
The northern side can be a bit difficult to access, take care climbing down to the ledge.


If Pigs Could Line- 30m Long, 25m High.
Nice exposed line, even better when there is a big swell crashing on the rocks below.

Who/When: Luke Sarantos and Shane Yates, FA Luke Sarantos. August 2012.

Anchors: All Ring bolts. 3 bolts for tension and 2 for backup on the southern side. 2
bolts for tension (don’t use the 'bad' bolt), 2 bolts for back up on the northern side.

Linking: Throw a line across or walk down to the base of the gully.

Remarks: Rap off small boulder near the point to get to the anchor on the northern side.


Rosa Gully

Unknown- 12m Long, 25m High.
Nice short line, easy to setup and not very exposed.


Who: Lucky Chance?

Anchors: 3 Ring bolts for tension and 2 carrots (take bolt plates) for backup on the south side, 2 RB for tension and
boulder for back up on the north side.

Linking: Throw a line across or walk down the gully.

Remarks: To get to the anchors on the northern side you will need to do small down climb, then rappel off the boulder, take a 2m sling for the boulder and rope protection for the backup.
This line is very sheltered from winds coming from the north, south or west, it is a great spot for a windy day.